Ayurveda in Varanasi: BHU University and India's Holiest City

Varanasi: sacred city and cradle of Indian medicine

Varanasi (also known as Benares or Kashi), on the banks of the Ganges, is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the holiest city in Hinduism. It is also a landmark in the history of Indian medicine: tradition associates the city with Sushruta, the founding figure of ancient surgery, whose treatise, the Sushruta Samhita, is believed to have been compiled in this region roughly 2,500 years ago. Discovering Ayurveda here means going back to the historical source of this traditional medicine — in a dense, noisy, spiritually intense city that could hardly be further from the calm beaches of Kerala.

The BHU Faculty of Ayurveda: a historic institution

Banaras Hindu University (BHU) is home to one of India's oldest university-based Ayurveda faculties. Ayurvedic teaching began there in the 1920s as a department, became the College of Ayurveda in 1927, then a postgraduate institute in the 1960s, before being integrated in 1971 into the Institute of Medical Sciences as the Faculty of Ayurveda, alongside the faculties of modern medicine and dental sciences.

• An integrative model: Ayurveda departments operate side by side with conventional medical departments, encouraging joint research and cross-referral of patients.
• A university hospital with Ayurvedic outpatient consultations open to the public.
• A historic pharmacy (the Ayurvedic Aushadhalaya, dating from the 1920s) and a botanical garden of medicinal plants.
• A recognised reference centre for Kshar Sutra, an Ayurvedic surgical technique using a medicated thread; a former BHU department head received the Padma Shri, one of India's highest civilian honours, in 2023 for this work.

For an international visitor, it is important to understand that BHU does not sell packaged retreats: it is a place of study, hospital care and research, not a tourist facility.

Clinics rather than resorts: what Ayurveda looks like in Benares

Unlike Kerala or Goa, Varanasi never built itself around Ayurvedic tourism. What you will mostly find are hospital consultations, clinics run by qualified practitioners (holders of a BAMS degree, often trained at BHU) and a handful of small centres offering massages and panchakarma in simple comfort. Prices are generally modest — an outpatient consultation may cost only a few dollars or euros — but accommodation, hygiene and English-language support vary considerably from one address to the next. The criteria detailed in our guide on how to choose an Ayurvedic retreat apply here more than anywhere else.

What the research says

BHU embodies an academic Ayurveda that submits itself to scientific evaluation. A telling example is Kshar Sutra, for which the faculty is a reference centre: the technique was tested in a multicentric randomised trial conducted under the Indian Council of Medical Research and published in 1991 in the Indian Journal of Medical Research. The trial concluded that healing was slower than with conventional surgery for anal fistula, but that the recurrence rate was lower (see the study). On the other hand, a study by Saper and colleagues published in 2008 in JAMA found that around 20% of Ayurvedic remedies sold online contained lead, mercury or arsenic at concerning levels (DOI) — a reminder that caution is essential when buying preparations, especially from tourist-oriented shops. For a broader overview, see our guide on Ayurveda and science.

Who is an Ayurvedic stay in Varanasi really for?

Benares will suit certain profiles above all:

• Travellers drawn to the historical and academic dimension of Ayurveda, willing to consult in a hospital or clinic setting.
• People already familiar with India, comfortable in a dense, noisy and emotionally intense city.
• Students and healthcare professionals interested in BHU's integrative model.

If, on the other hand, you are looking for a first supervised panchakarma in a restful environment, or a comfortable convalescence, southern India remains a better fit. For a calmer introduction to Ayurveda in the north, Rishikesh is often more accessible for Western visitors. In all cases, a serious Ayurvedic consultation with a detailed case history should precede any treatment protocol.

Practical matters

• When to go: October to March, to avoid extreme heat (April–June, often above 40°C / 104°F) and the monsoon; see our guide on the best time for an Ayurvedic retreat.
• Duration: a few consultations and individual treatments combine well with a cultural trip; a full panchakarma requires two to three weeks and a calm environment, which is harder to find in the city.
• Language: English is spoken at BHU and in established clinics; other foreign languages are rare.
• Traveller's health: winter air pollution, food hygiene and drinking water all call for particular vigilance.

Precautions

Ayurveda never replaces a medical diagnosis or treatment, and no stay in Varanasi should be viewed as a promise of healing. Before travelling, talk to your doctor, especially if you have a chronic condition, are pregnant or are on medication, and never stop a prescribed treatment on your own. On site, choose facilities supervised by qualified practitioners (BAMS/MD), ask for the composition of any preparation, and avoid metal-based remedies (rasa shastra) bought without traceability, given the documented risks of heavy-metal contamination. Be wary of touts offering "Ayurvedic massages" around the ghats. You will find all our recommendations in our guide on safety and precautions.