Ayurvedic Kajal: Traditional Benefits and the Real Lead Risk

Kajal, also called kohl or surma depending on the region, is a traditional cosmetic applied around the eyes, known since ancient Egypt and widely used today across India and the Middle East. Ayurvedic tradition associates it with a cooling effect for the eyes and protection against glare. But unlike most products covered on this site, kajal calls for a priority safety warning, documented in several studies: some artisanal kajals contain lead, a toxic heavy metal, particularly in the form of galena (lead sulfide) traditionally used for its intense black color.

This isn't a theoretical risk or excessive caution: it's data measured repeatedly in the scientific literature, detailed below.

Where does traditional kajal come from?

Classic artisanal kajal is prepared by burning a wick soaked in castor oil or ghee under a metal container, with the black soot that collects then mixed with ghee or oil to form a paste. This method, when genuinely followed without adding other substances, produces a carbon-based pigment generally considered of low concern. The problem comes from a different, more widespread practice: adding lead-based compounds, whether intentionally or through contaminated raw materials, to intensify the color or ease mass production.

What research shows about lead content

A study by Al-Ashban, Aslam and Shah, published in 2004 in the journal Public Health, analyzed samples of traditional kohl/surma sold in Saudi Arabia and measured high lead levels, in some cases exceeding 80% of the sample's composition depending on the product's origin, well beyond thresholds considered safe for cosmetic use (see the study on Google Scholar). Other analyses conducted in several countries on uncertified artisanal kohls have reported comparable results: lead content varies enormously from product to product, and there's no way to guess it by sight or from an untested product's label.

Lead accumulates in the body and can be absorbed through the skin and the eye's mucous membrane, with a risk particularly well documented in young children, whose developing nervous system is more vulnerable to even low but repeated exposure.

Artisanal vs. certified kajal: the comparison

Criterion	Uncertified artisanal kajal	Certified kajal (cosmetic regulation)
Lead content	Unpredictable, sometimes very high	Banned or strictly capped at trace levels
Traceability	Low to none	Full INCI list, batch number
Regulatory framework	No systematic control	EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 or local equivalent
Where to buy with confidence	Informal market, travel souvenir	Ayurvedic store or pharmacy applying regulation — see our guide on where to buy trustworthy Ayurvedic products

How to recognize a safer product

• Require a full ingredient list (INCI): a serious kajal displays its composition; total absence of labeling is a warning sign.
• Favor brands sold in pharmacies or established Ayurvedic stores rather than a street purchase or informal market during travel — our guide on trustworthy Ayurvedic brands details the criteria to check.
• Be wary of an "overly" intense black and a very greasy, heavy texture, sometimes (but not always) associated with lead-based formulas — this sign is indicative only, not proof.
• If unsure about a product already purchased, it can be sent for lab testing, or simply not used.

Precautions

Kajal should never be applied on or near an infant's or young child's eye, despite a traditional practice common in some regions of applying it to newborns' eyelids: this practice has been directly linked to cases of lead poisoning in children in several public health studies. In adults, avoid any product without a verifiable ingredient list, never apply uncertified traditional kajal inside the lash line (a method that increases absorption), and if persistent eye irritation, redness, or unexplained symptoms occur after regular use, see a doctor. This article does not replace medical advice; for general guidance, see our safety and precautions guide.